Skye McAlpine writes that she had vitello tonnato – cold, sliced veal served like this – on the night before her wedding, and where Skye leads, I’m keen. I believe Ed Smith of Rocket and Squash fame (another ex-lawyer, and a very nice bloke) also has a recipe for this in On the Side – but I don’t have a copy so can’t tell you how his goes.
Anyway, tomato tonnato sounds fishy: it is and it isn’t. It’s a whack of umami and a salty freshness, and it actually goes with most things.
Serves 3 -4.
6 large tomatoes
Half a lemon
2 egg yolks
120g drained tuna
1 tsp English mustard
1 peeled clove of garlic
Mustard greens, to serve
Using a serrated knife, slice the tomatoes thickly.
Blend two egg yolks, a squeeze of lemon, the anchovies, the tuna, the mustard and the garlic in a food processor or using a hand blender. Gradually add 100 ml olive oil, until you have a loose-ish mayonnaise – the consistency of hollandaise. If too thick, add a little water. Taste and season with salt, pepper and lemon juice as required.
Lay the tomato slices on the mustard greens, drizzle with the sauce and finish with a good grind of black pepper.